Tag Archives: Shanghai

Nanjing Buxing Jie

Today was one of those infamous “hazey” Shanghai days, but the weather was actually warmer than it’s been in a while. So I decided to take advantage of the not too chilly weather, and made my way to Nanjing Lu Buxing Jie to buy some Christmas presents! I rode the subway by myself for about the second time in my life, and frankly was really excited that I didn’t get myself caught in the sliding doors or fall down an escalator.

Feeling like a total local, I made my way into basically one of Shanghai’s top five tourist destinations. And an hour later, I left carrying my Christmas presents still feeling like a local, but looking like a total pilgrim holding my super obvious shopping bags. Whatever, nothing can take the shine off the fact that I’m an awesome haggler. I don’t really mean to brag*, but I got skills. I can’t actually tell you how good my skills are because that would ruin some people’s Christmas surprises. But trust me. I’m a solid smooth negotiator. This notion is born of the confidence that even if I fail when I’m bargaining and the people I’m trying to ineffectively hustle end up thinking I’m an idiot, it doesn’t matter because they probably think I’m from Germany or some other ridiculous country.

Nanjing Buxing Jie, a.k.a. Nanjing Walking Street, is pretty cool if you’ve never seen it before. But I have, and there’s a pretty good replica of it in every major city in China. Every city has some kind of big walking street with a bunch of knock off stores and some other random selection of shopping malls. If you like huge winds and sand in your face, check out the one in Beijing. Personally, I like the one in Shanghai because it has all these great old buildings that are kind of beautiful, and it’s also one of the first Chinese walking streets I ever saw back in 2008. I remember it pretty clearly, because we ate at a McDonalds.

If you ever to come to China, I wouldn’t say you “HAAAAAVVVEEEE” to go to see it, but I’d say something along the lines of, “It’s busy, crowded, and touristy, but it kind of hits you over the head and then kicks you around a bit until you understand the fact that you’re in modern China. Oh, and pay close attention because you don’t want to accidentally get run over by a trolley.”

I don’t have pictures from this time around, but I’ll try and get some if or when I go back.

*Of course I do. Why else would I write it in a blog about myself?


Snow in the ‘Hai

It’s snowing! And you know what that means! Getting to walk to and from work in the snow and Northernly winds! YAYYYY.

Apparently life doesn’t come to a screeching halt when snow touches down in Shanghai, but all in all, it’s still pretty great. The kids were so excited about the snow, and we pretty much talked about it all day.

Earlier this morning, I had all these grand plans of picking up some fresh vegetables and making a nice healthy and inexpensive dinner. But, after I drove the security guard at school into a laughing fit at my inability to walk out of the school with some semblance of balance and then braved my way through wet snow and serious wind, I decided I was going to scratch the original plan. Now, I’m waiting for Sherpa to deliver me a juicy hamburger and a bottle of wine.

While being cold and wet isn’t the greatest, I’m still enjoying the snow. Shanghai is beautiful right now. I hope it stays this way for at least tomorrow. Here are some photo’s I took on my walk home with my iPhone:

A cute little lane attached to my apartment complex

A small park on the way home located across from The Camel

Yueyang Rd.

Hengshan Road, Aka, "the biggest road I cross on my way home"


10 Things I’m pretty sure are happening in the Shanghai U.S. Consulate:

1. A never-ending pizza party catered from some secret U.S. location.
2. Systematic mocking of my sad street crossing skills (Elizabeth Gilbert can say, “Attreversiamo” to her hearts content in Italy, but I’d like to see her try and do the same in China),
3. A marines only dance party/rave.
4. Things that only authorized personnel should know about, but are now available to the world thanks to that Australian asshole.
5. Fox News Channel access (Dear God, I hope so.)
6. Visualizing Perfect Nonsensities?
7. Mocking of French things, except for Sarkozy because he is crazy awesome,(See: everything he’s ever done) and champagne (Because without it, how would we toast awesome things?)
8. Organizing of multiple pot-lucks with the Iranian Consulate next door (These have yet to happen for reasons un-known.)
9. Constant playing of that certain tune from Team America: World Police. (You know the one).
10. Secret authorized-personnel-only use of name brand American clothes dryers.

Got to give credit where credit is due. Thanks to Jami for helping with this list, especially numbers one and eight! Check out her blog on my blogroll under “Becoming Jami.” And thanks to Mac for her editorial support. Check out her blog in the same place under, “Believe in Yourself and Believe in Love.”


Sup, Jac Laoshi?

So here is a typical day in the life of Jac Laoshi. I wake up between the hours of 6:15 and 7 a.m. depending on how much of a frenzy I feel like being in as I scramble to work. (Interesting side note, China does not have Daylight Savings Time so the sun rises at five thirty or some such nonsense. This also means that the entire country is on the same time zone. People in Tibet must still be waiting for the sun to rise at 8. a.m. or something.) After waking up, I then lay in bed and dream about the next time I will get to enjoy some sleep. After about three minutes of this, I drag myself out of bed eat, dress, languish in front of my computer for a while, then put my iPod earbuds in and start the journey down the six flights of stairs.

On the way out of my complex, I awkwardly offer a “Good morning” or “Zao,” (depending on if I remember what country I’m currently in) to the four or five security guards. They awkwardly nod their heads or pretend not to see me, which I really don’t mind, since I sometimes pretend to be really absorbed in whatever I’m doing on my iPod. I then start the fifteen or twenty minute journey to school.

This involves a series of events that could potentially culminate with me smeared across the pavement, so I have to pay attention. One event is attempting to pass the slow meandering type of Chinese person who has nowhere to actually be and enjoys weaving across the entire walkway. They are extremely difficult to get around and somehow always manage to catch up with you at every traffic light despite their lackadaisical pace. Another event is avoiding the soapy water spray of the street cleaning vehicles. While standing on the curb waiting for the street lights to change, I must always be alert to the fact that I could suddenly end up in the splash zone of such a vehicles. Occasionally, these ninja trucks come out of nowhere and even the most skilled of Chinese people cannot avoid the inevitable dousing. It’s lovely. But, one of the more particularly dangerous events is Human Frogger. The most dangerous level of this game is played right in front of the American Consulate on a street that not only has ridiculous fast buses and cars, but an enormous amount of bikes and mopeds. My success rate so far is 100%. Hopefully, I will manage to maintain this record because, really, who wants to die knowing those Chinese guards outside the Consulate are judging you for you lack of ability to cross a street. This brings me to the last event, deciding whether to smile or just ignore the Chinese guards outside the Consulate. Wunan Kindergarten shares a gargantuan fence with the Consulate, so I’ve started to recognize and even name some of the guards (Nerdy, Serious Dude, Strangely Muscular Man, The Angry One Whom I Should Avoid Eye Contact With At All Costs, etc.) . Each day, there they are. All serious and stare-y. That’s all they do. Stare. And stare some more. It’s slightly unnerving. I did actually get one to smile once and felt like I’d tricked him into singing the American National Anthem.

Once I pass the Consulate, I arrive at Wunan! Here I am greeted by some music playing over the loud speakers. I wish I could describe this music to you, because it’s amazing. It’s communist to the core and always makes me feel like I should be marching off to fight in some revolution. By now it’s usually 8:15 and my day starts. From 8:15 to 9 a.m., myself and the chinese teacher in my current class greet and play with the kids as we wait for them all to show up. Depending upon which class I’m in, I usually spend my time reviewing English with the students or prying them away from their parents of whom they refuse to let go. Between 9:15 and 9:30, I begin to teach or attempt to teach my lesson. My older kids (by this I mean 3-4, instead of the younger class, who are also 3-4. Confused? Me too.) are usually awesome. They’re so smart, speak great english and are actually enjoyable to teach. My younger kids are a different story. While I love them every inch of them, it can sometimes feel like I’m trying to teach a herd of elephants how to tiptoe.

After lesson time, the kids have a snack, drink some water, and then it’s time to play! When the weather’s nice, we take them outside and let them run themselves ragged. The school also has a McDonaldsesque indoor playroom which the kids love. I usually try not to imagine how germ-infested this place must be (Thank you so much for these exciting neuroses, Mom) as they scramble to hold my hand or dangle from various parts of my body . This is the place where one of my kids once got so excited that he forgot he had to pee, and well, I’m sure you can guess the rest. By the way, this is the same kid that, just today, I watched pee on himself while he was standing two inches from the urinal. I doubt even an ability to understand Chinese would help me understand why he did this. There’s another room on the fourth floor that is basically just one of those big ball pits. The kids go crazy in this room and I love it. I never cease to be astounded how easily kids are entertained and kept happy. If only life were so easy for the rest of us.

After this, we usually round the kids up and get them ready for lunch. These kids must be the slowest eaters on the planet because it takes them a full forty five minutes to an hour to eat their lunch. During lunch I try to dissuade them from both talking and chewing with their mouths full, rubbing on me with their food encrusted hands, and spilling their entire trays on the floor. If it’s my younger class, I have to listen to a chorus of “Wo bu che,” which means I am not eating. Great. Thanks, Kid. Now eat the damn food. I’m usually left alone during this experience so the other teachers have a chance to eat, which means… well… who knows what. Am I supposed to force feed these kids? Am I supposed to perform a song and dance? I don’t know. Usually I just point, say sit down, and eat faster. This is also usually accompanied by a prayer that God will prevent complete and utter chaos during the other teachers’ absence.

After this exciting and confusing period of time, I get to head to my own lunch. Lunch is yet another adventure. Will it be amazing or give me ebola? I just never know. While I am a full on advocate of eating animals, I usually abandon this life-long practice when it comes to lunch at Wunan. Better hungry than dead is my motto. Good thing I can survive until dinner on a bowl full of white rice and a smidgeon of funky Chinese soy sauce (Let it be known that the Japanese do it better).

After this, Jami, the other Wunan teacher (without whom my insanity would run amuck) and I head to Starbucks, or as the locals call it, “Xing Ba Ke.” In the past two months, I’ve probably been to Starbucks more times than in my entire college career. Here, I either pass out for an hour or two with the other Chinese men who make Starbs their local nap spot or surf Twitter for a solid two hours. I make it a point to shirk all school responsibilities and go out of my way to procrastinate during this time. I pride myself on this fact and this fact alone.

Then comes the time where Jami and I must make the long three minute trek back to Wunan. It’s rough. Let me tell you. During this walk, I am either fighting my way back to consciousness or scrambling to mentally plan my afternoon lesson (I kid. I’m extremely well organized). Once I arrive back at school, I usually get to sit around for another fifteen to thirty minutes while the kids rouse themselves from their two and a half hour nap. Their lives are hard. I feel for them. I really do. Then they eat a snack. It’s about this time that I again hear, “Wo bu che.” Really Kid? Wow, didn’t see that one coming. Then, I start my lesson.( I rotate between two classes and they switch mornings and afternoons.)

At four, the kids are either picked up by their Ayi’s (nannies) or their parents. Usually the kids are gone by 4:15 and I begin the trek home. On occasion Jami and I will hit up a happy hour with a good wine selection on the way home. The happy hours in this town are crazy and there are about fifty million on my walk home from school. (There’s a picture of the view from one of my favorites, The Camel on the bottom of this post.) Life could not be better. I live in an amazing place, in an awesome part of town and I have an awesome job. I’ve been in a funky mood all week so this blog may make it seem like life is rough, but trust me, it is better than one could ever expect. Sometimes your mood simmers just below a murderous rage for no reason, and for me, this week is one of those times. I should be over it by tomorrow. The school (when I say school I mean myself, Jami, and another English Teacher named Gene) are putting on a Halloween performance and taking the kids trick-or-treating. I’ll tell you all about it in my next blog if I haven’t lost my morning game of Frogger.

View from The Camel. Calm. Quiet. And perfect.


I am in love…

… with this city. I love the street I live on down to the very stains on the concrete. I love Wunan Kindergarten. I love my kids (even when they color on my clothes). I love field trips to the Pearl Tower (even with 15 crazy kids who at any moment might disappear). I love the people I work with. I love my other CIEE Shanghai Teachers (and without whom life would suck). I love how close Ikea (or excuse me Yi Jia) is to my apartment. I love the farmer’s market down the street that has a stench you can smell from ten feet away. I love that I no longer am surprised by what I see at the aforementioned farmer’s market (pigs legs, squids of all sizes, frogs, swimming eels, unrefrigerated meats of all kinds… I’m mostly there for the fruits and veggies). I love my proximity to Wagas (a perfect mimic of a Western Cafe right down to the very salads). I love that I now know how to use a rice cooker. I love that I can have groceries delivered (or really ANYTHING delivered). I love that Chinese people let Westerners get away with anything because, well, I’m pretty sure they think we’re a) stupid or b) performing some strange foreign cultural ritual. I love singing on the subway. I love the amount of Jazz I’ve heard since arriving in this town. I love the sound of this city in the early evening. I love the complete lack of open container laws (shout out to Katie Sichau). I love that I can eat a whole meal for under 1 USD. I love constantly wondering what the hell people actually do in Pudong (I feel like right now is when I should start rapping about the West Side). I love that walking out my front door is an adventure. I love seeing turkey’s wander the streets free. I love the amount of amazing Thai food in this city and that I’m now addicted to Tom Yum. I love that I’m within 25 minutes walking distance of my favorite bar. I love singing a certain song from Team America in front of the Iranian Consulate . I love not having to drive, and instead just hopping in a Taxi. I love being halfway through a soup when I’m told it’s whale fin soup and wondering if I’m eating Shamoo. I love loving this city!

But I do miss all of you guys! Comment to let me know you’ve visited the site or Skype me! You might catch me at your night time around 6 or 7. It’ll be my morning, so the quality and length of our conversation might depend on what kind of early morning haze I’m in or if I’m running late. Also, you can catch me in your A.M., which is my night time. During the week, I usually pass out around nine (you try teaching 3-5 year olds), so you’ll have to get up early.


My six floor walk up on Route Herve de Sieyes

While the street may not have been called Route Herve de Sieyes since the 1920′s, my little apartment on what is now called Yongjia Lu is located right in the heart of the former French Concession. If you don’t look too closely at the curious stains on the sidewalks and instead focus on the Sycamore trees and if you mentally add a fresh coat of paint and remove all the hanging laundry occupying every available space on several old buildings… you might think you’re in France. But then again you might not. I wouldn’t know. I’ve never been.

Anyway, I love where I live. It’s perfectly Chinese, but still hints at that old Shanghai swagger. And I also spot and then promptly avoid eye contact with at least five westerners on my block everyday.

My apartment may be a six floor walk up, but I love it. While the staircase may be a little intimidating and slightly frightening when the lights don’t come on, the apartment itself is pretty great. It’s clean, simple, and has everything I need. My apartment complex is pretty great too. There’s a lady who sells cold beer… and some other stuff. What. I don’t exactly know. I think I’ve detected bags of dog food and bags of rice. It changes daily. Also in my complex is someone who really loves to listen to Eminem at full blast on the weekend afternoons, which always gets me kinda pumped as I head out to run afternoon errands. My absolute favorite though is the guy who plays the chinese flute in the early evenings. I love love love it.

Anyway here is my apartment:

 

View of my beer vendor from my balcony. Sometimes when you teach little kids, you just need a beer when you get home.

 

 

My Balcony/Laundry Room

 

 

My Bathroom

 

 

My Bedroom/ Everything Else Room

 

 

My Awesomely Yellow Kitchen

 


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